There are many ways to enjoy ramps (wild leeks) in their brief season, but I think risotto provides an ideal canvas for their garlicky, earthy, oniony beauty. Although you can cook the edible and flavorful leaves along with the bulbs and stems, I prefer to roast the greens—which deepens their flavor and makes them deliciously tender—while my risotto cooks. Before serving, you can stir the leaves into the risotto but I think they work best as a topping on individual servings. Want to get a little decadent? Use a little less Parmesan in the risotto and add a smattering of shredded smoked Gouda just before you top with the roasted greens. It will melt into a smoky cheesy layer.
* You may substitute chicken broth for the vegetable broth if not keeping kosher.